TURKEY FLOTILLA 2003
This was the first time Norman and I had ever been on a yacht and so the flotilla holiday in Turkey was full of new experiences. I kept a log of where we went mainly so that I could identify my photographs more easily when I got home. I knew that we were seeing so many different places in such a short time that my memory could not cope without an aide memoire.
The following is a record of the journey we made and the places we visited in a fortnight. The account does not include all the fun and laughs we had, the amazing sights, the feeling of shared experiences, the good food in good company or the exhilaration of some of the sails we had; however, these all come flooding back as I read my record and look at the photographs.
Kate Allen
Lucy and the Lycian Coast
We arrived at Dalaman Airport around 6pm and although the sun was low in the sky the heat hit us. After a further two hours travelling by minibus we arrived at Orhaniye. It was dark but we could see that Marti Marina was a large, modern marina. We were introduced to our yachts and the Jolly Sailors/Bromsgrove Boaters contingent was allocated Lucy, Didi, Louise, Thelma and Suzanna. Paul, Fran, Barry Norman and I were to spend the next fortnight aboard Lucy.
We were soon enjoying our first meal in Turkey, sitting in the restaurant overlooking the water.
Up at 7.45, showers at the marina and breakfast in the restaurant (Turkish breakfast – cheese, hard boiled eggs, honey, black olives and bread rolls). After breakfast there was a lengthy briefing by Paul and Maz, the flotilla leaders. By the time we had bought provisions and had our individual boat briefing it was lunch time so we ate before setting off for our first destination.
We started off under motor but soon had our sails up with one reef in the mainsail. There was a good steady wind and we managed just over seven knots on occasions. As time was tight, we headed straight for Selimiye and just as we entered the bay we lost the sun behind the mountains. A great sail for our first day!
There was just one restaurant at Selimiye and nothing else. We went to the kitchen to choose our mezzes (starters) and our main courses which were all assembled ready to cook to order. Slept well after drinks back on the boat.
16 nautical miles, 3.5 hours
Wind NW, force 2/3
Fran, Paul Norman and I decided to have a swim first thing and then prepared breakfast. Unfortunately this coincided with the briefing so Paul took his with him as Barry was not yet ready. We left Selimiye by 10.30 and were soon under full sail although we did eventually have to put a reef in the genoa. Lunch was taken in a small pretty bay, Armutla Bu, and Fran and Barry swam over to Louise which had also arrived in the bay.
The remainder of the journey to Adatepe Bu was under motor power. Adatepe Bu was a small bay with three restaurants and two small shops and the pontoon was very busy. Fran brought us into a very small space between a catamaran sailed by Germans and a larger boat used for day trips. We had another swim in the bay, watched the remainder of the flotilla arrive, then showered at Ogun’s restaurant. Dinner was taken at Ogun’s, followed by party tricks and games which involved a lot of water and wet trousers.
31.5 nautical miles, 7 hours (including lunch break)
Wind NW, force 3
Norman and I were up early to walk round the bay and up the hill to take photographs as the sun came up. Several stray dogs joined us for this walk. After a short briefing and restocking we set off and were soon excited to see several flying fish as we left the bay. We were amazed that they skimmed over the water for around 100 metres.
We had a swim and lunch at Pig Bay then motored on to Datca, a very busy marina lined with restaurants, bars and shops. A sightseeing stroll was rewarded as we saw fig, date and pomegranite trees. We ate at Maradona’s opposite our mooring after which I went back for an ‘early’ night, a group went for cocktails at a local bar and Norman went for a chat aboard Thelma.
14.5 nautical miles, 5.75 hours
Wind NW, force 2/3
What a night; loud disco music until 1a.m., dogs barking, noisy revellers passing by at 4 a.m. We went off to the shops to buy provisions and change money and Fran and Paul returned to purchase a backgammon set which they had spotted the previous evening. We departed at 11.30 and were soon under sail. Lunch was taken on the move in a calm section then we had a good brisk sail out towards Rhodes (but not too close). We briefly sailed alongside Didi and took some photographs before turning towards tonight’s anchorage.
Serce is a small bay where ‘Bob’ takes a line ashore for you using an almost derelict wooden rowing boat. We freshened up by having a swim before using the dinghy to get to the restaurant. This was precarious as five in the dinghy and a powerful outboard motor made it unstable and extremely low in the water. We decided that the return journey should be taken in two stages. It was disconcerting that I felt sea sick throughout the meal whilst sitting on dry land. Bob (the owner, farmer, boatman) hosted the dinner which ended with music and Turkish dancing.
35.5 nautical miles, 6.25 hours
Wind S & W, force 3
It was breezy when we woke and for the only time in the holiday we had breakfast ‘indoors’. However it was not too cool for a swim so Fran and I swam over to Suzanna for a chat.
The male contingent from Lucy went off by dinghy to pay for our meal and purchase bread. They took so long that we began to fear the worst. They eventually turned up saying that Bob had kept them talking but would not give details of the stories he had told them regarding his lifestyle.
Consequently we set off quite late at 11.30 but were soon under sail just outside the bay. We decided not to stop for lunch because the sailing was good and so just had fruit and drinks on the move. Just after we shook out our single reef we were almost becalmed as we inched our way around a peninsula, then suddenly as we cleared the headland there were 20 mph winds, gusting higher, and we shot across the bay for an exciting sail. Then we tacked back to the coast and prepared to motor into Kumlu Buku.
The Yacht Club at Kumlu Buku was very plush (except for the showers) and the Chinese chef provided an extensive Chinese menu including a very good crispy duck. The meal was followed by coffee on the boat and a very rough night due to the swell of the sea and knocking and banging against adjacent boats.
26 nautical miles, 5 hours
Wind force 5 gusting higher
Up for a swim in the choppy water and cold showers, followed by breakfast on a rocking boat; we were glad to get away from the swell in the bay and onto the open sea. We managed a short sail on the genoa then motored to Gerbekse bay for lunch. This was a beautiful calm bay with about six other boats including a catamaran with Germans on board – the males skinny dipping and the females topless.
Following a very relaxing lunch we retraced our steps and motored to Marmaris; a massive marina with wonderful shower facilities. We freshened up and headed into town to have a good look round and have a meal. The restaurant was high up and from the rooftop dining area we had a good view of the bay and the restaurants and shops on the harbour front below. Paul was in negotiating mode and obtained free garlic bread starters for us. The food was very good and we also had free watermelon to finish as way of recompense for the lady restaurateur spilling food on Norman’s trousers. She was very apologetic and offered to wash them for him! We walked back through the souk and bought Turkish delight which we had with coffee on Lucy when we got back.
29 nautical miles
Wind NW, force 2
As we were on free sail and did not need to meet up with the lead boat until tomorrow evening we decided to have a lazy day and stay in Marmaris. I washed a few clothes but certain crew members took a washload to the local laundry, to be collected washed and dried tomorrow morning! We browsed around the souk and had a light lunch in “Ali Babas” where we played backgammon with the proprietor giving us advice on the best moves. After taking our purchases back to the boat we went out later and found another good restaurant with a marvellous view of the bay.
We set off at 11.30 after buying provisions and hosing down the boat. Lunch was prepared to eat on the move. As we had made such good time sailing on full sail towards ‘My Marina’ at Ekincik, when we reached the bay we turned and had another hour of brisk sailing with two reefs in.
The restaurant was more expensive than the others we had been to but the waiters were very smart. A cabinet displaying the fresh fish was brought round with great ceremony whilst the head waiter recited the menu. They also had a sweet trolley, the first we had seen whilst in Turkey. When everyone had finished eating all the lights went out and a tape of traditional music came on. Then a glow of light appeared. This got brighter and brighter until several trolleys appeared looking like illuminated Christmas trees. As they got closer we could see they were tiers of trays with candles in hollowed-out oranges, greenery, and the ubiquitous melons. The lights went up and we were all served with melon – a very dramatic way to finish the meal.
37.5 nautical miles
Wind NW, force 4/5
Another day without sailing Lucy but we were going on a boat; it was a day trip up the Dalyan River. All the Jolly Sailors/Bromsgrove Boaters joined the trip boat at 9a.m. and we went along the coast to the Dalyan estuary. We passed the Turtle Beach but saw no turtles as all the baby turtles had left a few weeks ago. We disembarked further up river to visit the remains of the ancient city of Caunos with its great amphitheatre, water system, public baths etc. including the area for sacrificing the young females.
We carried on along the wide river lined with rushes along both banks and saw some burial chambers cut into the rock faces in the hillside. We continued past Dalyan to the mud baths where we enjoyed smothering each other in mud. After allowing the mud to dry and taking a shower we then went into the hot spring. This was lovely and warm but smelt atrociously of sulpher. Another shower was required after this. Further up river where it widened out the boat stopped for people to bathe in the fresh water. I was very impressed by some of the dives into the water from the boat.
We returned to Dalyan where we had time for a meal then back to Turtle Beach which was a lovely sandy spit of land shelving steeply into the sea. We arrived back at Lucy around 6 p.m. and for the first and only time ate our evening meal on board.
We made an early start to Kapi Creek, motoring part of the way then having a good steady sail for the rest of the journey. We had a swim and an ice cream then watched everyone else arrive. After this, Norman and I joined Tony, Linda and Val on a stroll up the hill behind the restaurant and were rewarded with a beautiful view of a bay and open sea on the other side of the peninsula just as the sun set.
We all went to the single restaurant that evening and had a chaotic meal. Mezze arrived with the salad, rice and potatoes which were meant to accompany our main course. Three of the five hot starters arrived and half way through eating these the main courses arrived which we sent back.. We finally got our other two hot starters, one of which was dried up and the other freshly cooked. Whilst we were eating these the main courses made another appearance and were sent back again. Eventually we got to our main courses which consisted only of meat. The other boats had similar experiences. I spent until 2.30 in the morning in and out of the heads feeling very unwell. This place seems to be living up to the name it had already been given: Crappy Creek.
13.5 nautical miles
Wind NW, force 2/3
Feeing much better this morning but tired from my disturbed night. As we were short of supplies we decided to visit Fethiye across the gulf and then return to 22 Fathom Bay for this evenings barbecue. Consequently we motored there and back.
We had three hours in Fethiye and managed to have a meal in the souk, use the beautiful new showers at the marina and purchase provisions for ourselves and various other people. Fethiye is a busy and interesting town and we decided that we would like to return here tomorrow instead of going to cold Water Bay.
We turned into 22 Fathom Bay to find it very busy but with no Setsail boats and so radioed Paul and Maz to find that the venue had been changed to Sarsala just along the coast. We all joined together for a very good barbecue courtesy of Maz and were treated to a poem written by Gill and performed by Gill and Marion. Gill came back to Lucy for a little nightcap before retiring.
17 nautical miles
Wind NW, force 2
Paul was happy for us to go to Fethyie today and five other boats decided to do the same. We set off under motor to several of the bays in the gulf; Deep Bay, Tomb Bay (lots of ancient tombs in the surrounding Hill) and Round Bay which (seemed to be a working bay with a tractor and cars and what appeared to be bee hives) before crossing over to Tersane Creek for lunch. The shore was lined with Byzantine ruins on three sides and we had a lovely swim in the calm waters before being deluged by day trippers in gullets and mobile salesmen.
Following lunch we had a good sail across to Fethyie and right up to the marina. We had a pleasant meal in the souk with Didi’s crew followed by more retail therapy until midnight.
20 nautical miles
Wind SW, force 3
A relaxed start to the day with a stroll around the town before lunch on the boat. Our last sail was 12 miles across to Gocek. We made good time but there was some confusion at the mooring which was very busy. We all eventually squeezed in except for Ariel which did not turn up that night. A good meal at the Blue Bar followed by a cake with sparkling candles and iced with the Jolly Sailors motif and the names of our five boats. Paul wore his fez and performed a Tommy Cooper trick with a watch and a hammer!
Have to be packed and off the boats by 9 a.m.
12 nautical miles
Wind SW, force 2/3
After a quick breakfast we spent an hour or so looking around the town. Then we were taken by minibus to the Gocek Lykic Resort Hotel. Some took a Turkish bath and others just swam in the pool and relaxed on the loungers. Light lunches were served outside in the shade. At 4 p.m. we were taken back to the marina where we were reunited with our luggage and boarded a minibus to be taken to the airport at Dalaman.
The end of a wonderful holiday.
A total of 275 nautical miles
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